What should you know about emollients?

Apart from dermocosmetics and cosmeceuticals that we wrote about hereemollients, especially in the last decade, have made a career in skin care nomenclature. They are often recommended for use, among others in the case of atopic dermatitis - both for adults and children (more about atopic dermatitis can be found here). What are emollients in cosmetics and what are their examples? Can emollients be harmful? In the article, we describe the topic of emollients in the opinion of specialists.

Emollients: what is it? 

The term emollient has been used for many years to refer to a cosmetic ingredient having a specific effect. Recently, however much more often emollients are defined as cosmetic products, i.e. ready-made preparations containing substances with emollient properties.

Emollients in cosmetics: what is it actually is?

Cosmetics of this type are intended for skin care - greasing, moisturizing, as well as washing the face and / or body. Emollients are intended for both for adultsand children.

The point is - similar to the case dermocosmetics and cosmeceuticals - it is in vain to look for an objective, universally accepted or generally accepted definition of an emollient. There are also no regulations or guidelines in this regard. Without a uniform definition of the concept of emollients - what exactly it is, the manufacturer can market any cosmetic under this banner (the more so as virtually everyone has an emollient in its composition).

Emollients in cosmetics for adults and children

In professional terminology (medical and cosmetic), emollients used in cosmetics contain fatty substances (esters, triglycerides, fatty acids). Most of them after application, it remains on the skin surface, creating a protective layer (hydrophobic barrier), preventing water loss from the epidermis. So they indirectly moisturize the skin - not by supplying water, but by keeping it inside as a result of occlusion. On the other hand, others (e.g. lanolin, ceramides) penetrate deep into the epidermis and have the ability to permanently rebuild the epidermal barrier.

Opinions of people using this type of cosmetics confirm that emollients have a softening, smoothing, regenerating and sometimes nourishing effect. In addition to water and water-binding substances (humectants), emollients are the main ingredients of creams and lotions. A good baby oil for babies contains almost only emollients.

Emollients in cosmetics: examples

Depending on their origin, emollients can be divided into:

• natural: vegetable oils and butters (e.g. olive oil, sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, evening primrose oil, borage oil, avocado, shea butter), as well as natural waxes (lanolin, beeswax);
• synthetic: mineral oils (e.g. petroleum jelly, paraffin - i.e. paraffin oil, ceresin, microcrystalline wax), silicones, some esters.

Examples of emollients in cosmetics of natural origin:

In addition to emollients of natural origin, you can also find synthetic emollients in cosmetics.

Examples of synthetic emollients:

It is worth remembering that the origin of the emollient alone does not determine the benefits of its use. Let us not assume in advance - contrary to the current trends - that everything that is natural must by definition be better, safer or more effective than any ingredient of synthetic origin. Such a belief can even be harmful. The use of (sometimes less effective) natural emollients can also be harmful, due to a bias against synthetic ones. Especially when we struggle with chronic skin diseases or our child is at risk of their occurrence.

Emollients in cosmetics on the market

They are sometimes called emollients preparations for which manufacturers declare a higher than average content of fatty substances, protecting the skin against water loss. Looking around in the store, you may be asking yourself: emollients - what exactly are they? We advise that they can be lotions, creams, emulsions, milks and cleansing cosmetics, such as emulsions and bath oils, shampoos, shower gels.

From the point of view of the ideal operation of cosmetics offered under the name of emollients, it is best when they contain substances with emollient properties in combination with humectants. (binds and retains water in the skin). This allows the lipophilic and hydrophilic components to complement each other, preventing dry skin.

Are emollients harmful?

As a parent, you are surely wondering whether emollients - despite their good reputation - are harmful. Properly selected and properly used emollients in cosmetics are not only harmless, but also help in the treatment of atopic dermatitis and in the prevention of this disease - especially in the youngest.

The results of studies conducted over the last decade - with the participation of not only adults, but also children - confirm the safety and effectiveness of these preparations on atopic skin. Moreover, according to the reviews - their use, if systematic, reduces the need for topical glucocorticosteroids, i.e. steroid ointments and creams. Thus, it is possible to reduce the side effects caused by these drugs.

By regularly using cosmetics for atopic skin in children with AD, you can alleviate one of the most troublesome symptoms of this disease, i.e. itching of the skin.

Emollients have too prophylactic importance u newborns at risk of developing AD. According to the results of the latest research preventive use of emollients reduces this risk by up to half.